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‘Karl’ First Look: Nick Hooker’s Portrait of Karl Lagerfeld

Discover the life and legacy of Karl Lagerfeld in Nick Hooker’s visually stunning documentary, ‘Karl’. This film offers an intimate look at the iconic fashion designer’s creative journey.

‘Karl’ First Look: A Deep Dive into the Life of Karl Lagerfeld

“Karl,” Nick Hooker‘s visually sumptuous portrait of German-French fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who led Fendi and Chanel for decades, is a delightful exploration of his world. The film not only showcases his spectacular runway shows — the outfits! the models! — but also provides an intimate look at the obsessive creator at work.

Exploring Lagerfeld’s World

As Hooker prepares to debut the film at the Telluride Film Festival on Saturday, August 30, he shared with IndieWire how he immersed himself in Lagerfeld’s universe to create a comprehensive portrait of the man. Hooker, known for works like “AKA, Mr. Chow” and “Agnelli,” realized that to penetrate the impressive facade of the white-ponytailed Lagerfeld, he needed to engage with those closest to him.

Insight from Fashion Icons

Hooker managed to connect with several elusive fashion icons, including Tilda Swinton, Paloma Picasso, Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp, Tom Ford, and Penélope Cruz, all of whom feature in the film. He also gained access to Chanel through Lagerfeld biographer William Middleton, author of “Paradise Now: The Extraordinary Life of Karl Lagerfeld.”

A Journey Through Trauma and Creativity

Hooker was captivated by Lagerfeld’s journey from a young boy in Hamburg, who survived World War II and fled to Paris, to becoming a fashion titan. He believes that the traumatic events of the bombing of Hamburg, known as Operation Gomorrah, propelled Lagerfeld into a realm of creativity.

“Karl, surrounded by this intense darkness and horrendous trauma,” Hooker explained, “found a way to create a zone of safety through his creativity. It became a form of resistance, a protective measure.”

Access to Karl’s Archives

Hooker and his team had full access to Lagerfeld’s archives at Fendi and Chanel. “We spent an extensive amount of time gathering runway footage, rhythmically capturing the clothes that defined his career,” said producer Susan Hootstein.

The Muse: Inès de la Fressange

The story of Inès de la Fressange, an early model and muse for Lagerfeld at Chanel from 1983 to 1990, is particularly compelling. “Inès was a great beauty, someone who inspired Karl,” said Hooker. “He had a penchant for aristocratic women.” However, when she fell in love and married, Lagerfeld felt abandoned and dismissed her.

Theatrical Runway Shows

Over time, Lagerfeld’s runway shows evolved into grand theatrical productions. “It was theater,” producer Julia Nottingham remarked. “The theater that Karl created in fashion.”

Innovative Storytelling Techniques

When existing audio-visual material fell short, Hooker incorporated animation and a Lagerfeld voice generated through artificial intelligence. “We used original audios from interviews, but they were often poor quality,” he noted. “Animation allowed us to convey ideas visually.”

Personal Life and Creative Energy

Lagerfeld was known for his comments to the press, but Hooker found them insignificant. “The most important thing for me was to keep the film close to him, to capture his creative spirit,” he stated.

Regarding Lagerfeld’s personal life, he had a profound love for Jacques de Bascher, a dandy with whom he shared an 18-year asexual relationship. “Karl was incredibly disciplined,” Hooker reflected. “His creative energy was entirely focused on his work, which is why he never ran out of steam.”

Take a first look at “Karl,” including the IndieWire exclusive still above.

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